Received: from [199.116.119.122] (port=32068 helo=yingkow.yourtacticalpenspecials.top) by stodi.digitalkingdom.org with esmtp (Exim 4.87) (envelope-from <1tacpen@yourtacticalpenspecials.top>) id 1couAr-00068H-5t for lojban@lojban.org; Fri, 17 Mar 2017 08:52:21 -0700 To: lojban@lojban.org Reply-To: <1TacPen@yourtacticalpenspecials.top> Priority: Normal Content-Type: text/html; charset=UTF-8 Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2017 11:52:12 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: You should carry this tactical-tool with you-everywhere. Message-ID: Content-transfer-encoding: 8bit From: 1TacPen <1TacPen@yourtacticalpenspecials.top> X-Spam-Score: 0.3 (/) X-Spam_score: 0.3 X-Spam_score_int: 3 X-Spam_bar: / X-Spam-Report: Spam detection software, running on the system "stodi.digitalkingdom.org", has NOT identified this incoming email as spam. The original message has been attached to this so you can view it or label similar future email. If you have any questions, see the administrator of that system for details. Content preview: Tactical-Specials The 1Tac Tactical-Pen: Protect-Yourself & NEVER Get Caught-Defenseless! [...] Content analysis details: (0.3 points, 5.0 required) pts rule name description ---- ---------------------- -------------------------------------------------- 0.0 URIBL_BLOCKED ADMINISTRATOR NOTICE: The query to URIBL was blocked. See http://wiki.apache.org/spamassassin/DnsBlocklists#dnsbl-block for more information. [URIs: yourtacticalpenspecials.top] -0.0 SPF_PASS SPF: sender matches SPF record 0.7 MIME_HTML_ONLY BODY: Message only has text/html MIME parts -1.9 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayes spam probability is 0 to 1% [score: 0.0000] 0.0 HTML_MESSAGE BODY: HTML included in message 0.8 RDNS_NONE Delivered to internal network by a host with no rDNS 0.0 T_REMOTE_IMAGE Message contains an external image 0.7 TO_NO_BRKTS_NORDNS_HTML To: lacks brackets and no rDNS and HTML only Tactical-Specials

The 1Tac Tactical-Pen:

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Hello lojban@lojban.org,

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I consider a knife as probably the most important Ten Essential-Category-related item. A good multi-tool or Swiss Army-style knife can do so many things. There’s no substitute that has the same capability. A pocket saw (mentioned further below) can cut through larger pieces of wood more efficiently than smaller multi-tool or Swiss Army-style saw blades. Note that a pocket saw supplements rather than replaces a knife in the tool kit.
Scout Knife Back in the day, when I was first introduced to the “Ten Essential Items”, the knife of choice was a Boy Scout knife. I still have it. Nothing particularly fancy, just no-nonsense utility. The Scout knife has a basic blade, awl, can opener, bottle opener/screwdriver, and lanyard bail. Swiss Army Knife My first college summer job on a Forest Service fire crew prompted a knife upgrade. Swiss Army knives were very much in vogue, and I found a good one at a hardware store closeout sale. Made by Victorinox of Switzerland, it was called the “Farmer”. The Farmer was an improvement over the Scout knife with some tool modifications and the addition of a very handy wood saw. I carried that knife for years, and never needed anything else. It did everything from strip wire to field dress deer. Swiss Army knives exist in many configurations and tool combinations that rival multi-tool capability. Ultralightists take note: If you don’t need pliers, Swiss Army-style knives are generally lighter and more compact, depending on configuration, than multi-tools. Multi-Tool I retired the Farmer when Leatherman Tool Group came out with their “Super Tool” multi-tool. It has eighteen tool functions (including pliers!), and has been my knife companion up to the present. The Super Tool’s robust enough to handle many chores, yet is compact and easy to carry in a belt sheath. I can’t think of going anywhere in the outdoors without it.

Multi-tools have become very popular, and there are other manufacturers and designs out there. Some are lighter, some have more tools, and I have several added to my collection. Yet, the Super Tool is what I still carry. The Super Tool, as do the best multi-tools, has folding pliers, two knife blades (one straight, one serrated), file, saw, awl, can and bottle openers (the can opener is sharp, counts as an extra blade!), and a variety of screw drivers, etc. The saw, similar to that of the Swiss Army Knife, is larger and particularly handy. Multi-tools, especially larger examples, are much stronger than Swiss Army knives. In the winter (sort of off the hiking subject), I work around snowmobiles, cargo sleds, and the like. Stuff breaks all the time, and carrying the Super Tool means not having to dig into the tool kit. Someone’s always hollering, “Gimme your Leatherman”, during trailside equipment checks. Lightweight Folding Knife

I also carry a very lightweight, medium-size, one-handed, locking-single-blade knife with a pocket clip. It serves the purpose for most blade-related chores without having to get the multi-tool out. This is the “go-to” knife in day-to-day activity that gets the most use. Note the multi-purpose, half-serrated blade design for cutting cord and rope. Ultralightists take note: At 3 ounces, this is the bare minimum (no tools, just the blade)! If cutting weight’s your goal and you can forgo additional tool functionality, this is the knife for you. Fixed-Blade Knife Carrying a fixed-blade knife is completely optional. Most hikers try to keep weight to a minimum, and will opt for the options discussed above. Ultralightists can skip to the next section below. HOWEVER, for the sake of discussion, we need to at least talk about fixed-blades. Why?
Larger fixed-blade knives can do things smaller blades aren’t capable of.
A group may opt to have one member carry a fixed-blade knife for shared group use.
When survival knives are discussed, many people automatically think of fixed-blade knives.

Knives in this category are sturdy, carried in a sheath, with blades 4? to 8? long. 5? to 6? blade length is generally considered the best compromise between size, weight, and capability. Fixed-blades are useful for hacking and splitting wood (think firewood, shelter, etc.), in addition to regular knife chores. Unless I’m going ultralight, I carry a fixed-blade, since it can do more and in less time than a smaller knife. I usually keep it sheathed, inside my pack in a secure location. Choose your fixed-blade wisely. It’ll sustain more abuse when pressed into service, so quality and function is essential. Your knife should have a complete full-tang, where the knife is made out of the same piece of steel from the tip to the exposed lanyard hole at the butt-end. The handle material is attached by screws or rivets on either side of the knife steel. This construction makes the knife very strong in comparison to other knives. The exposed metal at the butt end can be used for pounding or prying. Knives of this caliber should have a strong nylon sheath with plastic insert to keep the blade safe. There are many cheap, imported “Rambo-Wannabe” look-alikes out there that are all flash and pizazz. Often sold at discount stores or chain sporting goods stores, they look good but will potentially fail when in use. Avoid anything with one or more “features” like a hollow handle, compass at the butt end, or saw teeth on top of the blade. An extremely low price is another indication of low quality. Personally, I look for fixed-blade knives that are “Made in USA” from reputable manufacturers. Such knives cost more, but won’t fail the purpose they were designed for. eep that knife sharp! Carry something to keep your knife blade sharp. It’ll get dull if you use it extensively, and a dull knife is harder and more dangerous to use than a sharp knife.
Diamond Sharpening Rod I have a small, lightweight diamond rod with round, flat, and tapered surfaces that’s also grooved for sharpening fish hooks. Works great for knife blades. The tapered or cone-shaped end sharpens serrated blade edges and multi-tool tool-edges (like wire stripper or can opener edges). Diamond sharpeners are found in sporting goods stores. Check the fishing section.