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Johnny Dimaria ^ 5955 Reily Rd Lincoln Nd 58504-9353

chicken in a rice wine sauce. Enjoyed with a ramekin of perfect jasmine rice, the chicken was topped with basil leaves and a sheet of crispy chicken skin. As much as I enjoyed it, I thought the dish lacked pizzazz — a hit of something acidic or spicy to liven it up. That said, I wolfed down the whole dish before coming to that conclusion. My favourite large plate, the grilled beef, was served last. Ideal for sharing, the $19 dish is the most expensive on the menu, but was worth every cent. The table was cleared and two sauces, a thick peanut sauce and a garlicky vinaigrette, were set down. Following that came a platter with mint,		As I walked up to the door of Café Denise, all I was thinking to myself was: What the heck is the story behind this one? I had heard the food was excellent and that the space was rather diminutive in size. But upon arrival, it looked like so many of the shabby buildings on its industrial strip of Park Ex. I know the neighbourhood well, having worked across the street for a caterer for several years in the '90s. Frankly, I never even noticed the building, which I was told was a former computer repair shop.
for next time, I guess), we opted for the grilled tofu with tomato and sautéed shimeji mushrooms. This was a busy plate, with the flan-like tofu smothered in the fairy-sized mushrooms, and with enhancers that included basil, tomato sauce and walnuts. It was good, but I'm not sure this is the dish to convert those averse to the blandness of bean curd. A plate of make-it-yourself grilled beef rolls was worth every cent at Cafe Denise. DAVE SIDAWAY / MONTREAL GAZETTE Carnivores might prefer the grilled		Vietnamese coffee, morning broth (an ever-changing noodle soup) and lunchtime banh mi, I came for the more extensive service at dinner. With some 28 seats divided between several tables for two and a large communal table, the restaurant can pack 'em in. Soon after I arrived for my 6:30 reservation, every seat was taken. Café Denise, I found out after my meal, was an experiment of sorts thought up by three filmmakers: director Khoa Lê, producer Ménaïc Raoul and director of photography Mathieu Laverdière. Not only do they love the neighbourhood, they love to eat — and even more so, they love the concept of sharing. The decor is clean