From: Diabetes Assoc 
 <StephaniePayne@servicesbeak.com>
To: <lojban@lojban.org>
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2014 16:40:52 -0700
Message-ID: <6d3f27ef700191ea2188ed36c410cb32-Stephanie@daily-times.servicesbeak.com>
Subject: Breaking News: remedy
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Notice - Lojban
Diabetes Cure Alert


- Begin Notice - 

------------------------------------------------
Regain control of Blood Sugar levels. 
- Scientifically Proven
- Turn-around of 3 weeks
------------------------------------------------

Exposed Remedy -> http://www.servicesbeak.com/psa/video/released/dia/assoc.html


- End Notice - 
View Doctor Report: http://www.servicesbeak.com/psa/video/released/dia/assoc.html


stop further diabetes notices - http://www.servicesbeak.com/68i/werg/ju76/wt.sert32
or write - TGI Services
1324 Swan Drive_Bartlesville, Oklahoma 7 4 0 0 6


I've changed the solenoid. My battery has over 12 volts, but will not crank the engine. When I turn the key, I may get one or two halfhearted attempts then nothing. When I charge the battery up to over 13.5 volts, it turns over like nothing is wrong. I've tested the ignition switch and I have continuity, it doesn't read to 000's but it beeps and goes to like 0.26 or so. I've unplugged the wire from the solenoid that comes from the ignition and I get 12.5 volts through there. It's a 4 pole solenoid. I get 12+ volts on the post with the red wire that seems to be connected to the battery. I don't get 12 volts on the starter end. And when I try to crank the engine from the ignition, I don't get 12 volts to the starter. How can I test the wire from the solenoid to the starter? Or is that even an issue? I'm at a loss. Any help will be greatly I have a 'quill' now with a grease fitting on top, however (looking inside it) it has Sealed bearings on both ends, so the grease fitting seems kinda useless on this quill , (I would think anyhow, but correct me if I'm wrong).. 

After your post about the pulley, I did put my dial indicator on today to check more accurately the pulley for run-out, & it has .029" run-out on the outer edge.. 
Hard to see by eye, but it is not as true as I thought.. But being stamped steel, would that be considered TOO much out of true ? No it doesn't sound like much.. But nothing else makes sense.. 
Your advice is Always most appreciated.. Now I have a direction to concentrate on.. I want to check for run-out on that 'quill' (spindle top) to see if it is the pulley or the spindle first.. & then test the other Good side for run-out as well.. If it's the pulley, I could possibly true it to a much better tolerance, or make it much worse.. LOL Time will tell.. I'm a bit reluctant to even touch the good side, that is still the original assembly (over 6 yrs old)..


And as I posted above, the bearings are holding up very well, it is the housing that gets the seats for the bearings beat out.