Received: from nobody by stodi.digitalkingdom.org with local (Exim 4.80.1) (envelope-from ) id 1XVMDN-0004lH-9p for lojban-newreal@lojban.org; Sat, 20 Sep 2014 08:04:45 -0700 Received: from multiservice.piecenit.com ([178.156.213.167]:41985) by stodi.digitalkingdom.org with esmtp (Exim 4.80.1) (envelope-from ) id 1XVMDD-0004jz-34 for lojban@lojban.org; Sat, 20 Sep 2014 08:04:42 -0700 Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 08:07:41 -0700 To: Message-ID: <20140919024357.5904.6752323bb20bfeaff4bd751cce95d2e218ed7@multiservice.piecenit.com> Subject: Walmart Voucher - Id No 3464 From: Walmart Sep Bonus Reply-to: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Spam-Score: -2.6 (--) X-Spam_score: -2.6 X-Spam_score_int: -25 X-Spam_bar: -- Going to a Walmart Super-Center gets you Super Rewards - September Rewards have Arrived... ========================================================= Issued to: Lojban Walmart Gift-Card -> http://www.piecenit.com/walmart/expiring/rewards/sep19.html Receipt Id: 84-34586 Share your opinions and experiences, and enjoy rewards everyday. [Valid towards all In-Store Departments] [Rewards Program] To stop getting rewards, go to http://www.piecenit.com/y8o/wse/sdgtu/65q.aw2wedc or write - TGI Services 1324 Swan Dr- Bartlesville, OK 74006 ' /I'm also new, but two paintings ahead and using Daniel Smith's. - I had terrible results using water, so I used WMO linseed, and safflower. - I tried mixing my DS oils with the DS WMO on the palette and realized that it made little point to do so ; It is the same paint so you're losing the benefit of WMO (easy clean up, less toxic fumes). - I tried mixing areas of paint between the two and found that the regular oils dried at a significantly different rate than the WMO causing me to to frown a lot over yet another variable to calculate. So I resigned myself to mixing my colors from the WMO's I had. My results are in two posts a few posts back - I had trouble with sinking. I think the Golden Acrylic Gesso sucked my paint dry. So YES I whole-heartedly encourage you to oil your canvas first. Use linseed to thin, and whatever floats your boat (lol) to scumble, wash, stroke etc. a film on. I didn't and wish I had, and have to wait for the fourth in this little series to do it because I started the first three together. - From my hip high pile of books and months of reading on the web I'm pretty sure you sure start your layering with what 'feels' like the right answer. This result so far looks very good. You don't need to start modeling in greys, you can add raw umber to what you have a block in the deep shadow beneath the boat, or raw umber + ultramarine which is fun to play with in different concentrations and will make a nearly perfect black if you choose no highlights in the hair. - If you're a patient painter the 10 grey scale is probably a good idea, but "grey scale" refers to values, not the color necessarily. You don't need to 'grisaille' everywhere. Something I did to try and figure out how to do this, is turn my reference photos into greyscale on the computer. Then I turned up the contrast and slowly brought it back. I didn't use one photo but a dozen or so, so I only did this with the most critical elements. It really helped me choose how to use grey scale - I settled with 7 + white and my umber/ultramarine black. I used titanium, not zinc. The titanium is more opaque. A word of caution to remember. In susbsequent layers, you can not "wash", or "thick" transparent layer with titanium and need to be careful if you mix on the canvas or you will be in a miserable mood for days. - hope another struggler's recent experience has some value to you.